Cape May, New Jersey: Ginger Bread, Boats, Dining, and Fun with Friends

Donna’s brother Larry and his wife Patricia recently invited us to spend a couple days with them in Cape May, New Jersey. Of course we quickly accepted. 

Cape May is one of those places Donna and I had never been to but had for years talked about visiting someday, and taking the ferry that crosses Delaware Bay between Lewes, Delaware and the Victorian beach resort town at the southernmost tip of the Garden State. After all, the town bills itself as the country’s oldest seaside resort, dating back to pre-Revolutionary times, and its historic district is a National Historic Landmark for its architecture, and we always enjoy our time with Larry and Patricia. 

Architecture 

Cape May is known for its Victorian-style architecture. It’s everywhere. I mean, Cape May has as many big, well-kept Victorian-era houses as a politician has promises. Big Victorian hotels. Big Victorian bed and breakfasts. Big Victorian retail shops. A sea of big, colorful, ornate Victorian houses. The year-round population was just shy of 3,000 souls according to the 2020 U.S. Census, but I would have bet there are at least that many bed and breakfasts.  

Why is there such consistency in architecture, you ask? In 1878 a devastating fire raged for four days and consumed about 30 blocks – or 40 acres – of the town center. (Arson was suspected and a suspect charged, but a jury acquitted him.) The replacement homes were almost exclusively of Victorian style, and subsequent protectionist efforts ensured the town’s legacy of famously well-maintained Victorian houses. Read about the fire here and more about Cape May on Wikipedia. 

Getting there 

As noted, we wanted to take the ferry as part of our adventure, so we took the shortcut that added two hours to our travel time. The trip from Columbia to Lewes is a journey along narrow country roads dotted by chicken farms, alfalfa fields, and Wawa and Royal Farms convenience stores common as silos. The few towns along the way, with a couple exceptions, didn’t look prosperous or quaint; you wouldn’t mistake them for a Hallmark movie set. 

We had tickets for the 12:15 ferry and were slowed by rain, septic-tank trucks, and lumbering trucks loaded with chickens headed to their eternal resting places. We reached the loading area in the nick of time, pulled onto the vessel that holds 100 vehicles (I think we were number 96), locked the car and climbed the metal stairs to the main deck.

We were like rubes as we pushed open the heavy metal door at the top of the stairway and traversed a narrow hallway that opened to reveal a vast indoor area. Dotting the space were dozens of little tables for travelers to eat, play cards, or just enjoy the view as we glided across the bay. There also was a theater-style area with dozens of high-back upholstered chairs facing an enormous flat screen showing a soap opera, a cantina serving sandwiches and drinks, a bar, and even a gift shop. Go-o-o-lly!

The 17-mile trip takes an hour and 25 minutes, which according to my high mathematical powers works out to a speed of five miles per hour, although it seemed like we were traveling much faster. We hadn’t known what to expect, but the trip was a wonderful fulfillment of a minor bucket item. Here’s a link to the ferry’s website. 

Getting around 

Cape May is an exceedingly walkable town. All around are hotels, restaurants, shops, and family activities. Washington Street Mall, a pedestrian-only street in the central part of town, was a 12-minute walk from where we stayed. There are also close-by parks, museums, and more.  

Patricia graciously made all the arrangements – where we’d stay, where we’d eat, and what we’d do. Donna and I were happy to go along. 

We stayed at the Bedford Inn, a large old Victorian house (of course) a block off the beach. Its 10 guest rooms and communal rooms are filled with beautiful antique furniture, and a large front porch is a great place to enjoy a nightcap and chat with the other guests.

On our arrival we checked in with the inn’s lovely proprietor, got settled, and met up with Larry and Patricia at the nearby Mad Batter restaurant for bloody Marys to mark the beginning of our adventure together. Afterwards we strolled around town and on the Promenade that parallels the beach before repairing to the inn for a glass of wine and then walking to dinner. 

Dining 

Besides the usual family restaurants you’d expect at a beach town, there are many fine dining options in Cape May. Our first night we dined at Tisha’s on the Washington Street Mall -- great food, good service, and a pleasant atmosphere that facilitated engaging, lively conversation with people we consider friends more than relatives. And like many places here, it’s BYOB, which takes the bite out of the steep entrée prices. 

The next night we ate at 410 Bank Street, another great choice and another BYOB. It offers excellent Cajun food and outstanding service in several handsome dining rooms and a screened-in porch. The 14-minute leisurely walk back to the B&B in the fine weather didn’t make a dent in my caloric intake, but it assuaged any guilty feelings I may have had for eating and drinking indulgently nonetheless. 

Note: Apparently, we are challenged about finding the correct entrance to restaurants. For dinner the first night, we dutifully followed Waze’s walking directions, found Tisha’s right where Waze told us it was, saw a door, and walked in. It may or may not have been an emergency exit; alarms didn’t sound but we entered a dining room with occupied tables inches away from the door. The diners didn’t seem especially pleased as we brushed by them in search of the hostess stand, a few rooms away. At another place, The Lobster House, we entered a Twilight Zone-esque portal with doors leading to a fish market, lunch counter, the kitchen – but no dining room. We finally got set straight, but it took quite a while. If someday you see four befuddled, lost retirees who look hungry, be kind and help them find their way.  

Cape May Point State Park 

The second morning, after breakfast at the inn, we drove a few miles west to Cape May Point State Park, home to a bird sanctuary, museum, the Cape May Light House, and remains of World War II structures including a large concrete bunker and observation tower. The point acts as a funnel on the north-south migratory path of many species of birds, so the site draws birdwatchers from all over. We checked it all out before heading back for our afternoon adventure. 

Whale-watching excursion 

We assembled at the inn to add layers for the three-hour whale-watching trip Patricia arranged, then drove across town to Cape May Harbor, from where our boat would depart at 1pm. We found a restaurant on the harbor (the aforementioned Lobster House) and had a good light lunch before arriving at Cape May Whale Watching.  

We boarded the 125-foot Atlantis, which can carry more than 200 sightseers, but on this off-season excursion there were perhaps 30 passengers, enabling us to position ourselves wherever we wanted to get pictures and visuals on sea life. It was exhilarating. We saw no whales – even though we went out 11 miles in our search, according to the skipper – but scores of dolphins – many clustered in pods. Below are lots of our photos from Cape May Point State Park and the whale-watching excursion. 

It was a great couple of days. We discovered a wonderful town we had never visited, enjoyed good company, and had many memorable experiences. 

Cape May Point State Park photos...

Whale-watching photos...